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    Barcelona recommendations

    Mrs Education and I are celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary this year and want to go to Barcelona in September. As we are the last people ever to go there there, it appears, I am looking for recommendations. For anything - food, drink, sights etc - but, specifically, at the moment, hotels that are fairly central.

    #2
    Start here.

    My recent visits have been short and for business, thus not very useful. A lot of my friends have had good luck with short term rentals in a market where hotels tend to be over-priced.
    Last edited by ursus arctos; 08-07-2017, 15:10.

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      #3
      Thanks ursus. I had an idea that we had had a thread on this.

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        #4
        There's been more than one, but they hard to find because of the notoriety of the football club.

        That one is a bit old but very solid.

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          #5
          BoE: Do a search for "Ramblas" and you will most likely find them.

          Or not. The only other I could see was a TG thread from 2008. (And all of these old threads make me so embarrassed at the absolute shite I type sometimes.)
          Last edited by Gerontophile; 08-07-2017, 15:40.

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            #6
            We did similar in April. It was the sort of trip we'll still be talking about in 20 years.

            We stayed up near Monjuic because we found a hotel-flight deal* but were happy to walk each day into the centre/port/Ramblas/Poble Sec/Saint Antoni/wherever - though we do both like walking. But unless you have time pressures to spend x hours in each of 4 museums (which we didn't do), walking and taking in the vibe seemed to be the point of it. And as others have pointed out, you can get good food and drink most places. Our take was that you'll never do all the stuff you could, so just relax and do the stuff you wander past.

            Don't miss out on a trip up to Gracia, which was the only place we took the metro to, and Park Guell. And the Sagrada Familia is beyond description seen in the flesh. I'd seen a million pictures like most people, but was fairly relaxed about whether we actually went there. Then when we did, I babbled incoherently for about an hour. If you're going inside, book in advance online. We didn't and the tickets for the rest of the day were gone by 2pm.

            A lot of the Museu d"Historia de Catalunya was closed for renovations, which was a shame as the bits we saw were really good, and I'd def go back there.

            *Good tip. Let it be known that you really fancy celebrating your birthday by staying in a B&B and walking up to the summit of Cadair Idris to see the sunrise. Then sit back and wait for your other half to frantically comb the internetz for deals to Berlin, Barcelona or somewhere warmer and drier. And, stupidly, not much more expensive.

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              #7
              What Chris said. I'm going for about my sixth visit in August and having taken my best mate on his first visit previously, I'm really looking forward to seeing how my girlfriend enjoys hers.

              I can't help with hotels as I've only stayed with my cousins and in hostels there before. We do have a room in a hostal booked for August, which ... seems nice enough, judging from online reviews? But as ursus says, the prices for hotels are ridiculous (there was a point when I was looking and was very close to going, 'fuck it, I'll Skype my aunt and just ask if we can stay with her').

              What dates in September are you there for specifically, though? If it's the weekend closest to the 24th September, you're going to be slap bang in the middle of Festes de la Mercè, the celebration of the city's patron virgin. It's three or four days of some of the best fun I have ever had (I've been for it twice), but if you're only there for a few days it will result in being torn between whether to go out and get into the middle of the party, or whether to go and see the sights. Either way you'll be missing out, although if you're staying very near the centre you won't have much choice at least in the evening.

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                #8
                The things we did were almost the tick list out of a top ten attractions so don't need listing. Do go to the fountain display in plaza di spagna (starts about 9 and get there early to pick a good vantage point). The beach (Barcelonetta) is very good, lots of bars and cafes on the road between the metro and it. Absolutely prebook on a jump the queue ticket if you want to go in the inside bits of parc guell, sagrada familia and museums. Although we didn't go inside sagrada familia, to me it looked a bit, well, almost plain inside from photos compared to the outside (apart from the stained glass) and certainly not looking like it was worth €30 a pop to see.
                Last edited by Rogin the Armchair fan; 11-07-2017, 11:14.

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                  #9
                  Went to Barcelona for a few days in February and stayed in a neat 2-bedroom AirBnB about 10 minutes stroll from the port, arranged by my son (I could get you details if you're interested). We'd intended to do some self-catering, but there were some excellent bars within 3 minutes walk and we ate out every night. As long as you're reasonably close to a Metro station, you should be OK for getting around.

                  Sagrada Familia is an absolute must - I was sceptical but it's well worth the money - I don't expect to see a more impressive building in my life.
                  Parc Guell was very interesting - we didn't bother with the internal part that costs, and didn't particularly regret it.
                  The port was fascinating - in particular the contrast between the mega-yachts and the blanket salesmen. Anybody willing to take that cable car ride across the port has deepest respect from me.

                  Otherwise, what's already been suggested above.

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                    #10
                    You're vegetarian aren't you, BoE? The below will be of no use to you, but any carnivorous otf types have to go here (definitely stop off when you're there, Sam).

                    Frankfurt Sant Jaume. It's a hole in the wall hot sandwich joint just off Placa Sant Jaume (the old town square with city hall and the palace of the autonomous region's prez facing off against each other). Bocadillos from heaven. Just a few hot plates behind a counter, a perfectly surly molt catala geezer serving, and I would almost fly there just to experience the bocadillo de ternera (thin veal steak) again. But the chistorra con queso, old favourites like lomo (thin cut pork loin), it's all inexplicably brilliant, far above any other bocata in town. The hamburguesa con queso is also a crowd pleaser. I think it's cos they press down the bread on the grill as well and kind of flatten the sandwich, without a bland panini effect (hot plate has a top that comes down as well). And whatever the bottle of brown liquid msg lovely is they squirt on the hot plate when frying the meat.

                    It's still up on Google, so unlike the late lamented Montello pizzeria on Via Laeitana (best pizza in Spain fo' sure) it survives and there might still be a god.

                    Last edited by Lang Spoon; 09-07-2017, 23:58.

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                      #11
                      And on the Espanish sandwich tip, last time i was there (gulp, getting on a decade now), all the Pans and Co (local hot and cold baguette serving equivalent to McDonalds) seemed to be closed, from the Airport to the Ferran/Ramblas joint. It was fairly gash, but late night availability of ham and cheese bocadillos and beer often came in very handy.

                      Oh and as a vegetarian BoE, getting acceptable scran might be the worst thing about your visit. I'm sure it's getting better, but there seemed a total reluctance to consider that someone ordering a "vegetable salad" doesn't want tuna or ham with it. Went out with a vegan for a bit, in a city of 2 million or so in the urban area, there were two explicitly vegan restaurants we could find, and a few Indian restaurants she could order something at fairly comfortably. This was turn of the millennium time but.
                      Last edited by Lang Spoon; 09-07-2017, 20:10.

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                        #12
                        Palau de la Musica is worth a visit, especially if there's a concert on. "Modernista" (Art Nouveau), like a more restrained, less all over the place Gaudi. And Santa Maria Del Mar in the Born part of the old town is incredible inside. A far greater gothic church than the musty and restored to shit main Cathedral (not the Sagrada Familia).
                        Last edited by Lang Spoon; 09-07-2017, 22:50.

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                          #13
                          They do guided tours(in English) of the Palau together with shortish organ concerts in the summer, which I would recommend. If you like the Palau, you will also like Sant Pau, which is by the same architect.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Lang Spoon View Post
                            And on the Espanish sandwich tip, last time i was there (gulp, getting on a decade now), all the Pans and Co (local hot and cold baguette serving equivalent to McDonalds) seemed to be closed, from the Airport to the Ferran/Ramblas joint. It was fairly gash, but late night availability of ham and cheese bocadillos and beer often came in very handy.

                            Oh and as a vegetarian BoE, getting acceptable scran might be the worst thing about your visit. I'm sure it's getting better, but there seemed a total reluctance to consider that someone ordering a "vegetable salad" doesn't want tuna or ham with it. Went out with a vegan for a bit, in a city of 2 million or so in the urban area, there were two explicitly vegan restaurants we could find, and a few Indian restaurants she could order something at fairly comfortably. This was turn of the millennium time but.
                            It's clearly got a lot better. We had no trouble at all (both veggie), in fact the food was one of the highlights. The local bread is fantastic.

                            I'd guess vegans might have problems away from the centre, but there's a huge number of veggie, vegan, Lebanese, Indian and 'alternative' type places. The conversations over the veggieness of the rennet were sometimes puzzling to the locals, but otherwise no probs. Check out Rasoterra if you want something a bit different.

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                              #15
                              Yeah, I go more or less every year, and I never struggle with food.

                              One tip if you want a cheap but large meal and don;t care about ambiance, there are a lot of places which do an all you can eat buffet for about 10EUR. Salads, breads, pizza, pasta and sauce type thing (plus you get a drink - beer/wine or soft, and dessert and coffee). There's even a big veggie/organic one the name of which escapes me on Plaza Urquinaona

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                                #16
                                Originally posted by Lang Spoon View Post
                                You're vegetarian aren't you, BoE?
                                Bloody hell, no! Where did you get that idea. I am looking forward to some proper nose-to-tail eating.

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                                  #17
                                  Jeebus, I could have sworn you were a no leather shoes, nor meat neither type. My mind is going. I can feel it.

                                  Well in that case ye have to spare 10 minutes for Frankfurt. Not exactly romantic, but you've a braw square to eat your dirty meaty sandwiches at.
                                  Last edited by Lang Spoon; 10-07-2017, 20:48.

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                                    #18
                                    Uruguayan/Argentinian asado steak places are definitely worth a go as well. And a bit classier than a bocadillo in tinfoil. Be warned they aren't exactly laying on the carbs, so you might be hungry quite quickly after a massive slab of entrecot. There's a very good one just off to the right of where Passeig de Gracia terminates at an intersection with el Diagonal (then afterwards becomes Gracia High St, instead of Paris style boulevard through the city grid (where you've got two of Gaudi's best buildings more or less across the road from each other*)), which now has a tram line on it, another way of getting to the Camp Nou if you don't fancy the metro. That is uselessly vague, and the joint might be long gone by now, maybe Sam would be of more use.

                                    *La Pedrera, which you could get in on a tour back in the day, and still can, wavy undulating stone and ironwork corner tenement block, and Casa Batllo, which wasn't open to plebs. But now it is, so unless it's crazysexymoney or book 6 months in advance for a ticket, go there. The outside is apparently inspired by St fuckin ubiquitous Jordi/George slaying the drain, and the mad colour and contouring of the roof does look like dragon scale. Gaudi ya magnificent infuriating weirdo.
                                    Last edited by Lang Spoon; 10-07-2017, 20:52.

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                                      #19
                                      Yeah, Casa Battló is well worth a look both out- and inside.

                                      And I agree that the inside bits of Park Güell don't need doing unless you're a true Gaudí obsessive. The rest of the park is plenty big enough and impressive enough to spend a decent amount of time strolling round.

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                                        #20
                                        What the hell do they charge for? Are we just talking the gingerbread and mushroom gatehouses? (The bits I like least, it's the aborted wonky columned Market and platform above I love most). And the walk out through the "woods" to the hilltop memorial/view point/den of diseased seen it all cats looking into the city.
                                        Last edited by Lang Spoon; 10-07-2017, 22:57. Reason: Can't remember the orientation of Barcelona.

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                                          #21
                                          The Arabian Baths are fantastic. The tourist bus was also excellent value for cramming sights in to a short stay. We ate both close to the hotel in more "authentic" surroundings and out by the beach/port. The latter was much better. The Museum of the History of Catalonia was also fascinating.

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                                            #22
                                            I think I might have mentioned this before. When wandering around the streets, keep looking up. The buildings are full of surprises.

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                                              #23
                                              Originally posted by Lang Spoon View Post
                                              What the hell do they charge for? Are we just talking the gingerbread and mushroom gatehouses? (The bits I like least, it's the aborted wonky columned Market and platform above I love most). And the walk out through the "woods" to the hilltop memorial/view point/den of diseased seen it all cats looking into the city.
                                              There are exhibitions on Gaudí's life, influences and how they fed into his work, stuff like that. Not dissimilar to the bits in La Pedrera and the Sagrada Familia really.

                                              In August I'm quite tempted to do Bellesguard, which is the only one of his things in the city itself that I haven't seen yet. Which reminds me, Bored, if the chance arises you should also check out Palau Güell (commissioned by the same chap who did Park Güell, but near the Rambla). You probably won't get the chance - it was opened during the 150th anniversary year when I saw it, but I think has been shut otherwise - but if it is open for any reason you should really take a look. And head to Plaça Reial and have a gawp at the street lights that are standing in the middle of the square there: they were Gaudí's first commissioned work, when he was fresh out of design school.

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                                                #24
                                                As I suspect I always say at this point, read Robert Hughes' book before you go. I know of no better city history.

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                                                  #25
                                                  You are always right when you say it.

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