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Oh, Do I Like To Be Beside The Seaside?

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    Oh, Do I Like To Be Beside The Seaside?

    Yes, of course I do, but the UK's traditional seaside "resorts" have fallen on hard times recently and some are looking a bit shabby. So, prompted by mention of Weston-super-Mare on the Zoomathon thread, childhood memories of the British seaside, adult experiences and the current state of play.

    I suppose that the resorts visited during your childhood, if you were lucky enough to be able to go, were usually dependant on where you lived, the most popular ones being those closest to where you lived. Growing up in South London, for me it was Brighton, Worthing, Littlehampton, Bugger Bognor and, occasionally, Seaford. Not Camber Sands that I can recall, which seems rather odd as it's one of the few sandy respites from south coast shingle. Our regular "punches" down the coast were very pleasant, not that I've got that many memories of them, other than ham sandwiches after a dip in the freezing English Channel, mint ice cream and pouring my meagre pocket money into the amusement arcades. There was one incident, on Brighton Pier I think, when some sort of horrific scarecrow figure, like a nightmarish cuckoo in a cuckoo clock, came flying out an entertainment venue and scared the crap out of me! For years afterwards I was a bag of nerves when I walked along piers, constantly expecting the experience to repeat itself and warily studying the buildings either side of me like a gunslinger walking through a town in the Wild West.

    Margate I knew too, as my uncle had moved down there shortly after remarrying following the death of my aunt and on trips to see family in North Wales we'd visit my mum's friend in Colwyn Bay, but I'm not sure if that's really known as a holiday resort. It certainly didn't feel like one at the time.

    My dad, and I've never quite understood why, was somehow connected to the Post Office Insurance Society which held annual jollies around the country, so I got to see a few places that were outside of my usual SE coast stamping ground, such as Torquay, Weymouth (spent three days in the local hospital with a grumbling appendix), Southport (as an 8-year-old I saw a condom machine on the wall of the campsite toilets and asked my dad what they were for, "They're what men wear if they don't want to have babies," he said, a good answer but one which left many more questions than answers) and Blackpool. Dunoon was the very first venue, but Scottish OTFers will have to let me know if that's a daytripper sort of place or not. Thinking about it, I'm not sure if I know which places in Scotland are. Oban? I've been there. What about Northern Ireland?

    Most holidays were spent in NW Wales, so you can add Porthmadog to the list, but I may have visited one or two East Anglian resorts when I was very young and a bit later we spent a couple of weeks at Brean, so we probably popped into the aforementioned Weston.

    School field trips helped add Paignton and Llandudno to the list.

    I was a student in Portsmouth and spent three happy years in Southsea, tombstoning from South Parade Pier, and on one occasion popped over to Hayling Island.

    As an adult, I've now seen Southend as a football fan, been back to Margate and finally got to see Camber Sands. I've been to Exmouth and Sidmouth with my wife and I've taken my kids to the Isle of Wight (Ryde, Sandown, Shanklin), Jersey (one big seaside resort, really), Paignton again, Newquay and Teignmouth.

    My folks moved to Rustington in the '90s so I've been reacquainted with Littlehampton and then, in the hospital years, Worthing. Both seem to have made a big effort to smarten themselves up and diversify the attractions they provide, which is what I'd like OTF to comment on. How many of the places that you visited as kids are making a fist of flourishing in the 21st century and how many seem to be on an inexorable downward trajectory?

    There are so many traditional seaside towns that I've never visited that I've got no real idea which ones are doing well and which ones aren't. Southsea was looking a bit tired in parts when I went down there a few years ago, but it's still got a lot to offer. And I gather from my cousins that Margate is on the up. But Skegness, Scarborough, Rhyl, Whitley Bay?

    A friend of mine has just moved from St. Leonard's to the Costa Tropical. Bit of an unfair comparison to make, so I won't , but he was cheerfully critical of the former, which was sinking rather than swimming in his opinion.

    So, memories and observations, OTFers.
    Last edited by Nocturnal Submission; 19-06-2020, 09:58.

    #2
    One of my closest friends lived in Rustington for quite some time (her mum still does), so I know it and Littlehampton well. Definitely one that's smartened itself up, though I find that its reputation seems to precede it; if I mention the place the reaction it often gets is that the sort of people who go aren't the sort of people who it'd be nice sharing a beach with. Always found it nice enough, myself. Quite a few of those places along the Sussex coast have done a fairly good job (including Worthing - a couple of friends opened a board game place there just before COVID kicked off, so I've come to know the centre relatively well). Even Shoreham high street is pretty pleasant.

    Growing up the majority of our seaside trips were to Tramore in Ireland, which has probably gotten a little more down-at-heel (it might be memory playing tricks, but it seems like it has about 10% of the shops and attractions it once had, but that might be because I was considerably smaller back then). Like much of Ireland, one of the bigger changes in the last 20 years has been that it's become considerably more diverse as well.

    Brighton seems a little nicer than it once was, but still very rough round the edges (I do love Brighton though, tattered though it is in places). The North Laine in particular is far more lah-de-dah than even my uni days, although some nice venues and pubs have been lost along the way.

    Margate was pretty rough when I was a kid, and based on my two visits this year, hasn't really gotten much better. The old town area has been brightened up, and there's the hint of gentrification around (predominantly in the old town, including a nice market hall), but it's very far from taking hold in a big way, despite how much it gets mentioned in hipster circles. The Turner isn't exactly 'centred' in the town - it's right on the edge of the harbour as you head out of the centre - which hasn't helped. It's also probably the very worst place I've been in the UK for the sheer quantity of dog shit on the streets. Hastings has done a considerably better job of making the most of its old town (which is very nice), but hasn't had anything like the attention Margate has.

    The only other one that springs to mind is Eastbourne. Solidly middle class then and the same now. Incredibly, eerily quiet sometimes, which probably reflects the profile of its population. Nice day out at the tennis tournament though.

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      #3
      My paternal grandfather used to take my sister and me to Severn Beach on the train when we were little. It scared the hell out of me.

      I think Severn Beach is joint-third (with Port Talbot) on my all-time list of Most Unsettling Places Visited, topped only by Pasewalk and Lauchhammer.

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        #4
        If we did day trips (from Cambridge/Royston area), it would be to Suffolk - Southwold and nearby mostly, and occasionally Norfolk, though I guess that was harder to get to, since the beaches are nicer (places like Wells-next-the-sea, for example), but we tended to go for Suffolk, which must mean my dad preferred the drive. We went to Hunstanton once and my parents were so applled by how dirty and run down it was that we never went back. i still haven't.

        In summer if we went to the coast it would be Whitby/Robin Hoods Bay

        I like how for my parent's generation it seems like whole cities would decamp en masse to a specific place. Sheffield seems largely to have been Bridlington, which for August must have been wall to wall nah-den-dee.

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          #5
          Yeah, for Teessiders it would be Redcar, Saltburn, Seaton Carew for the day, Whitby possibly an overnight but more generally the day, Scarborough for a bit longer.

          Our dad worked at Spurn Head for a while when I was a kid, so I also have fond memories of Bridlington - as far as you could get on the bus from Middlesbrough where he would pick us up - and the delights of Withernsea and caravan parks at Easington (North Humberside version) and Patrington. Bizarre place where the graffiti didn't say Boro & MFC but bizarrely Hull FC & Hull KR.

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            #6
            My brother got his cheekbone and eye socket broken in an assault by iron bar in Tramore in 1980, so if anything, I think it's improved since then.

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              #7
              From the NE London suburbs, the daytrip of choice was Southend. A few families would cram in the ‘tina, pick up beigels at Gants Hill, and pootle down the A127 to sit on the pavement near Rossi’s, Westcliff. A bit of swimming, getting sunburn, trudging over estuary mud at low tide, a visit to the pier and Peter Pans, an ice cream if we were lucky, stop off at Leigh for cockles on the way home, and maybe a country pub garden visit near Billericay to cap the day off. Marvellous.

              A few caravan parks and holiday camp weeks elsewhere most years. Pontins at Sand Bay, Weston during the ‘76 scorcher. Selsey, Christchurch, Broadstairs, Hastings, Clacton, and Weymouth spring to mind. Rarely ventured from the South/South East , though a grim, wet, windy week in Skeggy sticks out as a shuddering memory.

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                #8
                Originally posted by via vicaria View Post
                It's also probably the very worst place I've been in the UK for the sheer quantity of dog shit on the streets.
                Our dog did a shit in an amusement arcade in Withernsea and we did a runner. Dog's egg and dash, if you will.

                I also have a memory of the worst greasy spoon meal of my life in Withernsea.

                But it has an inland lighthouse with a museum to a Hollywood star in it, so the Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away.

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                  #9
                  And of course Redcar has the world's oldest lifeboat, the Zetland, sharing a family connection with 'Jeans On' star Lord David Dundas.

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                    #10
                    We'd go to blackpool, which was just fine with the pleasure beach and Pacland at the amusement arcade in the Tower. Morecambe was creepy depressing but.

                    The east Neuk villages in Fife have substantially tarted themselves up these past thirty odd years. Rather than Duncan Ferguson kicking off outside the chippy it's all neu folkies, bad landscape artists and holiday home Embra wanks now.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by treibeis View Post
                      My paternal grandfather used to take my sister and me to Severn Beach on the train when we were little. It scared the hell out of me.

                      I think Severn Beach is joint-third (with Port Talbot) on my all-time list of Most Unsettling Places Visited, topped only by Pasewalk and Lauchhammer.
                      What was scary about it?

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                        #12
                        I went to Margate for a festival a couple of years ago and agree that the gentrification seems a thin veneer. This view is also held by a friend of mine who grew up there and still returns to visit family, so is very familiar with the town. The harbour and beach is a striking setting.

                        Whitley Bay has a very nice beach. There might not be enough to do to fill a fortnight's holiday but as an outer suburb of Newcastle with a coastal setting it is a pretty good place to live.

                        We spent most of our childhood holidays in Tenby, due to having family in the area. The beaches are stunning and the old town very pretty. We used to go for the whole school holidays and I can remember the accents in the streets changing overnight as one area's industrial fortnight ended and another's began. It's not an especially friendly place. When the pandemic restrictions came in, some local voices rather gave away their underlying animosity towards visitors, which largely stems from being economically dependent upon them, I think.

                        I lived in Brighton and Worthing for a few years each but back in the '90s. I haven't been back to Worthing recently but Brighton seems subject to the same processes of gentrification as other 'desirable' cities, while the area around the seafront and Lanes stubbornly refuses to let go of some residual vulgarity and seediness.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Lang Spoon View Post
                          The east Neuk villages in Fife have substantially tarted themselves up these past thirty odd years. Rather than Duncan Ferguson kicking off outside the chippy it's all neu folkies, bad landscape artists and holiday home Embra wanks now.
                          LS speaks the truth here.

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                            #14
                            Primary school trips were mainly to Walton-on-the Naze and Clacton, Secondary school was mainly to Margate, At the time they had the corkscrew and the Mary.

                            I remember us doing a week at Ramsgate as well as day trips to Brighton, Broadstairs as well as Southend

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                              #15
                              We used to go on day trips to Hengistbury Head (Christchurch) when I was growing up, as it was the closest beach (more or less) to my grandmother's house. So we'd go a couple fo times a year when we were staying with her. To be honest, I don't remember it too well - enough that it seemed familiar when I revisited it a couple of years ago (I suppose that it hasn't changed much), but not anything that I did when I was young.
                              Writing this makes me remember that we used to visit and stay at both grandparents' houses growing up, and realize that my kids only do that with one half of their grandparents.

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                                #16
                                Can I just say that the universally-loved ditty that inspired the thread title here was written by my uncle's grandfather?

                                No, I'm sorry, there isn't time.

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                                  #17
                                  Originally posted by Sporting View Post

                                  What was scary about it?
                                  It stank, everything was rusty and I could see bits of Newport.

                                  And there was an open-air swimming pool. My father always used to go on about how his best mate at school had drowned in a lido. So I, thick little bastard that I was/am, assumed that I, because I was somebody's best mate, would also drown in a lido.

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                                    #18
                                    I still don't fully understand anyone who describes Brighton as a "beach". It is a pebbly shore. No-one can romantically skip along it and drag you, laughing, down onto its soft, er, rocks.

                                    Similarly anyone sitting on the tidal mud*flats of Blackpool. Break as many plastic spades as you like. Not a beach.

                                    * one trusts it's mud.

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                                      #19
                                      All the dictionary definitions here (both UK and US Englishes) make clear that beaches can be sand or shingle

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                                        #20
                                        Childhood beaches were always north Norfolk. Sheringham for sand and rockpools, Blakeney for crabbing, Wells-next-the-sea so my Mum could enjoy long walks while me and my brother complained that there were no rockpools, sand or crabs.

                                        As an adult I'm an easy train ride from Bournemouth (one of my main reasons for choosing Southampton as a University was that I thought it would have a beach. Bother), although if I can persuade someone with a car to take me, Milford on Sea is exactly the same only closer and with about 100 times fewer people getting in the way.

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                                          #21
                                          Originally posted by slackster View Post
                                          From the NE London suburbs, the daytrip of choice was Southend. A few families would cram in the ‘tina, pick up beigels at Gants Hill, and pootle down the A127 to sit on the pavement near Rossi’s, Westcliff. A bit of swimming, getting sunburn, trudging over estuary mud at low tide, a visit to the pier and Peter Pans, an ice cream if we were lucky, stop off at Leigh for cockles on the way home, and maybe a country pub garden visit near Billericay to cap the day off. Marvellous.
                                          You can still do all that. Rossi's is still there and looks the same as it did 50 years ago. Peter Pans changed its name to Adventure Island in 1996 but the crooked house and helter skelter remain (listed buildings actcually). It all gets a bit mundane when you live by the sea and see it all the time.

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                                            #22
                                            From Sheffield it was Bridlington every year. Later North Wales, especially Prestatyn holiday camp.

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                                              #23
                                              My dad went to Blackpool beach every summer for the first 19 years of his life.

                                              I was sexually harassed at the arcade in Great Yarmouth aged 13.

                                              Been to lots of great British beaches. Robin Hood Bay. Aberystwyth. Brighton. Cromer. Sheringham. Lynmouth / Lynton. Durdle Dor. Isle of Wight.

                                              When my kids are grown up and have left home, I'd like to spend a year just walking the British coast line. I'd have to do it by myself as my husband doesn't see the point of British beaches. He likes Mediterranean ones, which are objectively much better, but that's hardly the point.
                                              ​​​​​​

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                                                #24
                                                Originally posted by pebblethefish View Post
                                                Childhood beaches were always north Norfolk. Sheringham for sand and rockpools, Blakeney for crabbing, Wells-next-the-sea so my Mum could enjoy long walks while me and my brother complained that there were no rockpools, sand or crabs.

                                                As an adult I'm an easy train ride from Bournemouth (one of my main reasons for choosing Southampton as a University was that I thought it would have a beach. Bother), although if I can persuade someone with a car to take me, Milford on Sea is exactly the same only closer and with about 100 times fewer people getting in the way.
                                                My grandad lives in north Norfolk, about 10 miles south of Sheringham, so that's one of the few bits of Britain's coastline that I know at all well. In the '90s the whole family would go to West Runton, which is squeezed between Sheringham and Cromer, to walk the dog when he had one then. It's not an especially prepossessing beach but it's more or less sandy and there were usually some interesting rockpools to poke about in – and the sandstone cliffs are incredibly soft so there's a slight frisson there as largish bits quite frequently slough off plus all sorts of things occasionally drop out, up to and including an entire giant prehistoric elephant.

                                                I last went to both towns for an hour or so apiece last summer, the last time I was up there, shopping with my mum and one of my aunts. Neither place ever seems to change very much; I don't actually know Cromer very well at all but I like Sheringham quite a lot, though alas it's lost one of its small charms since its venerable little independent bookshop Bertram Watts closed three years ago after 115 years in business.


                                                We never did seaside trips in the conventional sense, as holidays were usually visits to grandparents either up there or in suburban north London. I mean, I spent a good chunk of my childhood within about five miles of Barry Island, without ever going there. (Not that I ever felt I missed out, indeed I'm perversely proud of having avoided the place so successfully all these years now.) The annual summer holiday was quite often near the coastline, but days at the beach were generally secondary to going to see castles, stately homes, gardens and other sorts of National Trust/English Heritage/Cadw type stuff. I remember literally one day on Scarborough beach in 1991, between four otherwise consecutive days of going to various abbeys, and other than Tenby a couple of times in the late '80s that might be the only time we went to what you might call a proper 'resort' town.
                                                I think we popped into Eastbourne in 1998 on the last of these holidays, after we'd finally gone back to the south coast instead of the North Sea (I'd successfully begged for Devon the year before instead of the northeast again, so naturally it rained all week, but Sussex was a bit better), but I only recall the unnerving feeling of it being a retirement community masquerading as a seaside town and we stopped for a round of crazy golf but no longer than that as I recall.

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                                                  #25
                                                  Originally posted by pebblethefish View Post
                                                  Wells-next-the-sea so my Mum could enjoy long walks while me and my brother complained that there were no rockpools, sand or crabs.
                                                  This Wells-next-the-sea?

                                                  Plus there are seals which hang out on the beach too.

                                                  A lack of rock pools, mind you, I'll grant you that

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